Ingredients at a Sweetgreen
restaurant in Washington, D.C.
Marvin Joseph/The Washington
Post/Getty Images
About a decade ago, food writer
Michael Pollan issued a call to action: Eat food. Not too much. Mostly plants.
As 2016 opens, it looks like many American cooks and diners are heeding that
call.
Vegetables have moved from the side
to the center of the plate. And as another year begins, it appears that plants
are the new meat.
Bon Appetit magazine named AL's Place in San Francisco the best new
restaurant of 2015. Meats at AL's Place are listed under "sides." The
rest of the menu features vegetable-centric dishes sometimes featuring animal
protein as an ingredient — pear curry, black lime yellowtail, persimmon, blistered
squash. The hanger steak (with smoked salmon butter), however, is a side dish.
This and other restaurants are also
using the whole vegetable. What used to go in the compost heap is now
fermented, roasted or smoked and used in other dishes. The stem-to-leaf approach
follows the example of nose-to-tail eating.
WastED is a project that brings
together chefs, farmers, fishermen and food purveyors to "reconceive
waste" in the food chain, according to the group's website.
The WastED salad has been available
at Sweetgreen restaurants, making use of the restaurants scraps — broccoli
leaves, carrot ribbons, roasted kale stems, romaine hearts, roasted cabbage
cores, roasted broccoli stalks and roasted bread butts, all mixed with arugula,
Parmesan, spicy sunflower seeds and pesto vinaigrette.
Food waste has become a concern to
the U.S. government as well as chefs. The U.S. Department of Agriculture and
the Environmental Protection Agency have set a goal to reduce food waste by 50
percent by 2030, calling in a joint statement
to "feed people not landfills." The statement says food loss and waste
account for about 31 percent (133 billion pounds) of the nation's food supply.
The ascendance of vegetables has
added a new word to the food lexicon: spiralizing. Piles of spiralized
vegetables — produced with, yes, a spiralizer — are replacing pasta in some
home and restaurant kitchens. Cookbooks, blogs and tools are available to help.
Eaters in 2016 also are likely to
see more dried beans, peas and lentils on their plates. The United Nations has
declared this the International Year of Pulses to raise consumer
awareness of the nutritional and environmental benefits of the edible dry
seeds. Chickpeas seems to be the rising star of the pulse world. They're not
just for hummus anymore.
The rise of vegetables and focus on
food waste are the culmination of more than a decade's worth of government,
consumer and food and environmental activists' concerns that have finally
trickled into the mainstream. Sustainability issues are becoming particularly
visible in the fish we're eating. More overlooked fish and some invasive
species are being offered to diners.
So-called "clean labels"
are another expression of these concerns. Both consumers and food purveyors are
focused on removing GMOs, artificial ingredients, preservatives, antibiotics
and growth hormones from food. Even fast-food outlets are using more eggs from
cage-free chickens and dumping ingredients that have been genetically modified.
There are generational shifts, too,
in the way we eat.
Millenials — now more numerous than
baby boomers — have a huge impact. The corporate food world is keenly
interested in how and what this large group of consumers eats. And they do buy
and eat differently from older generations. They order ingredients online, and
learn to cook from YouTube as well as cookbooks and websites. They care about
the environment, ethical treatment of animals, and community. They frequently
use food delivery services rather than go what we spear wi ing to the
supermarket, and order meal kits that deliver prepared ingredients.
Whatever your age, expect 2016 to be
the year not only of the vegetable, but of more awareness of th our forks.
HEALTHY LIVING EVERYDAY
HEALTHY LIVING EVERYDAY

